Greetings,
I'm about to attempt my first foray into shooting Super 8. Up until now, I've only worked with digitial. I've been reading about super 8 online but havent found much information about the two cameras that i've got.
They are:
A heavier "Cosina SSL-800 Macro" that I picked up in Germany. The lens reads: (Cosinon Reflex Macro Lens 1:1.7 f = 8 ~ 64mm )
Plus a lighter "Cinerex 418" from England. The lens reads: (HOYA 49mm Skylight [1B] Japan)
Both cameras seem to be in working order, though I suppose i won't know how good they are until i get a test roll developed. In any case, I'm planning to shoot a 3 -5 min film in black & white set to some 1960's beat poetry so I think the medium fits the piece very well. As i've never shot with film before i'm not sure exactly what to use. I was thinking Tri X perhaps. The description I found seemed to say it was grainier but with more leeway in terms of light conditions. Also not sure which is a better camera to use. I assume they're comparable although the Cosina seems more heavy-duty.
Anyway, just introducing myself to the board and hoping that the veterans here can give me some tips.
Many thanks,
Stefan
Getting Started
Moderator: Andreas Wideroe
TriX now has a much higher ASA (180 or 200 I think), + many Super 8 cameras can't cope with metering this. It leads to an overexposed image, dull grey tones, and Much graininess if you're not careful. I shot some TriX on my Nizo 481, and wasn't impressed much with the image.
A good way to combat this is to use filters, and to manually expose each shot, to add more tonal contrast, and control the amount of light reaching the film.
Perhaps shooting K40 colour, and getting it developed as B+W would be a better way to go? What do the other guys think here?
A good way to combat this is to use filters, and to manually expose each shot, to add more tonal contrast, and control the amount of light reaching the film.
Perhaps shooting K40 colour, and getting it developed as B+W would be a better way to go? What do the other guys think here?
I know nothing of your cameras but if they don't have the ability to
manually set and lock exposure then they are probably of interest
only to collectors. If they can't be set manually buy a camera that
can be. Remember as long as you are smart shopper you can always
sell any gear you buy for about the same as you paid maybe more if
you get lucky on ebay.
Plus-X is my favorite B&W S8 film. Its fine grained and can get some
beautiful images. Tri-X has more grain and seems more contrasty in
my experience. You could get away with Plus X outdoors and Tri X
for interiors. Scout out your locations and take some readings with
your light meter to assess which film stock might be appropiate and
whether you need to bring in extra lights. You do already have a light
meter... right?
K-40 is really the only stock that you can reliably use with a Super 8
camera's auto setting. Its been mentioned before, the Sekonic L-398
is a great and affordable meter to start with. They are about 50 bucks
on ebay these days.
manually set and lock exposure then they are probably of interest
only to collectors. If they can't be set manually buy a camera that
can be. Remember as long as you are smart shopper you can always
sell any gear you buy for about the same as you paid maybe more if
you get lucky on ebay.
Plus-X is my favorite B&W S8 film. Its fine grained and can get some
beautiful images. Tri-X has more grain and seems more contrasty in
my experience. You could get away with Plus X outdoors and Tri X
for interiors. Scout out your locations and take some readings with
your light meter to assess which film stock might be appropiate and
whether you need to bring in extra lights. You do already have a light
meter... right?
K-40 is really the only stock that you can reliably use with a Super 8
camera's auto setting. Its been mentioned before, the Sekonic L-398
is a great and affordable meter to start with. They are about 50 bucks
on ebay these days.
-
monobath
- Senior member
- Posts: 1254
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 7:11 am
- Real name: Skip
- Location: 127.0.0.1
Welcome to the forum.
I'm afraid I don't know anything about those particular cameras you've got. Also, I'm a home movie hobby shooter. There are a number of professional shooters here, but I'm not one of them.
There are a few things I know, though. That HOYA 49mm Skylight 1B is a filter, not a lens. There should be other markings on the lens to help identify it.
Are you going to be shooting indoors, outdoors, or both? What sort of lighting conditions? Will you be using available light? What time of day? Tungsten lights, HMIs, or another source? What look do you want? Do you want grain and high contrast, the edgy so-called 8mm look, or do you want smooth tonality, minimal grain, and normal contrast?
You have to be able to answer all those sorts of questions before anyone can give you specific advice. (And I probably can't give you very good advice anyhow
)
If you've never shot S8 before, you should try shooting several carts of different films in each of your two cameras before you do any important work. You need to know if your cameras work properly.
In very general terms:
Use Kodak Plus-X for smooth tonality, low grain, normal contrast. With no filter it is 100 ASA daylight, 80 ASA tungsten.
Use Kodak Tri-X for higher contrast and a bit more grain. In Kodak's current processing chemistry, it is slightly less grainy than in the past. With no filter it is 200 ASA daylight, 160 ASA tungsten.
Another smooth and unique looking looking B&W film is Fomapan R 100. With no filter it is 100 ASA daylight. I don't know how it is rated for tungsten.
Those are your main b&w films. I understand there is an Orwo film available, but I don't know anything about it.
Search the forums too. You'll probably find simiilar questions have been asked before.
I'm afraid I don't know anything about those particular cameras you've got. Also, I'm a home movie hobby shooter. There are a number of professional shooters here, but I'm not one of them.
There are a few things I know, though. That HOYA 49mm Skylight 1B is a filter, not a lens. There should be other markings on the lens to help identify it.
Are you going to be shooting indoors, outdoors, or both? What sort of lighting conditions? Will you be using available light? What time of day? Tungsten lights, HMIs, or another source? What look do you want? Do you want grain and high contrast, the edgy so-called 8mm look, or do you want smooth tonality, minimal grain, and normal contrast?
You have to be able to answer all those sorts of questions before anyone can give you specific advice. (And I probably can't give you very good advice anyhow
)If you've never shot S8 before, you should try shooting several carts of different films in each of your two cameras before you do any important work. You need to know if your cameras work properly.
In very general terms:
Use Kodak Plus-X for smooth tonality, low grain, normal contrast. With no filter it is 100 ASA daylight, 80 ASA tungsten.
Use Kodak Tri-X for higher contrast and a bit more grain. In Kodak's current processing chemistry, it is slightly less grainy than in the past. With no filter it is 200 ASA daylight, 160 ASA tungsten.
Another smooth and unique looking looking B&W film is Fomapan R 100. With no filter it is 100 ASA daylight. I don't know how it is rated for tungsten.
Those are your main b&w films. I understand there is an Orwo film available, but I don't know anything about it.
Search the forums too. You'll probably find simiilar questions have been asked before.
-
saltyninja
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2005 7:06 am
Thanks for the tips. It'll be a mostly indoor shoot with largely natural light through a nearby window. A bit of grain and contrast would be appropriate I think.
A question: Does shooting K-40 and then applying a b&w effect during editing yield the same quality b&w as shooting on Tri X or Plus X? I'm just wondering because I fear the cameras don't have manual exposure settings and I might be flying auto... :oops:
-Stefan
K-40 is really the only stock that you can reliably use with a Super 8 camera's auto setting.
A question: Does shooting K-40 and then applying a b&w effect during editing yield the same quality b&w as shooting on Tri X or Plus X? I'm just wondering because I fear the cameras don't have manual exposure settings and I might be flying auto... :oops:
-Stefan
Yes making the colour film B&W in post is a good alternative. Most of the
B&W film you see in music videos or commericals these days was shot in
colour and changed in post. The drawback is that you don't get quite as
rich a greyscale or nice deep blacks and pure whites as you would if you
were working with real B&W films.
However since you are shooting indoors with a film of only 40 asa you
might struggle a bit to get enough light to work with.
I imagine your film will take 8-12 hours to shoot and your lighting
conditions will be changing as the sun moves and cloud coverage can
hurt or help you. Once you know your cameras are working from the
test roll. Do a second test inside your location. Shoot at different times
of the day to get an idea of the lighting conditions.
You will probably need some additional fill light. Some 500 or 1000 watt
lights bounced off the ceiling will help. And maybe some photofloods to
put into any practicals in the room.
Although it would take a little more effort on your part to get a better
camera and light meter. I think your film would really work better with
Tri-X the look will be a lot different from K40, more gritty and the fact
the film is so much faster will make shooting your film a lot easier as
you won't have to stress out if its too dark to shoot as the sun slowly
drops behind the horizon and you realize you still need to shoot for
about 2 more hours...
B&W film you see in music videos or commericals these days was shot in
colour and changed in post. The drawback is that you don't get quite as
rich a greyscale or nice deep blacks and pure whites as you would if you
were working with real B&W films.
However since you are shooting indoors with a film of only 40 asa you
might struggle a bit to get enough light to work with.
I imagine your film will take 8-12 hours to shoot and your lighting
conditions will be changing as the sun moves and cloud coverage can
hurt or help you. Once you know your cameras are working from the
test roll. Do a second test inside your location. Shoot at different times
of the day to get an idea of the lighting conditions.
You will probably need some additional fill light. Some 500 or 1000 watt
lights bounced off the ceiling will help. And maybe some photofloods to
put into any practicals in the room.
Although it would take a little more effort on your part to get a better
camera and light meter. I think your film would really work better with
Tri-X the look will be a lot different from K40, more gritty and the fact
the film is so much faster will make shooting your film a lot easier as
you won't have to stress out if its too dark to shoot as the sun slowly
drops behind the horizon and you realize you still need to shoot for
about 2 more hours...