I'm finally going to get 5 minutes to go and shoot some 16mm film on my filmo 70DR. I've been dying to do it for months. I was wondering if anywhere in the UK (or abroad) developed 100D and Tri-X 16mm. I'm guessing they do but I have no idea about reliable labs. I guess a lab in Europe would be best to keep those postage prices to a minimum. Also how do I get around the x-ray machine problem or is that a myth?
I realize I could develop it myself in my lomo tank but I don't really want to split the film at 50ft. So I wondered what 16mm processing prices were like out there? If it's too pricy I'll split it and do it myself.
Hi there -- there's a thread out there on airport scanning but the upshot is, just like is says on the scanner itself, anything under 800 speed is more or less safe IF you put it through with your carry on luggage. DO NOT put it in bags you check, those are scanned with a much more powerful scanner.
Mailing film doesn't seem to be an issue, just be sure you label it as film and write something like "do not xray" on it. No idea if that makes a difference, but better to spend 30 seconds than wonder later.
THere are certainly labs in the US that will develop your 16mm reversal, here in seattle we have the excellent alpha cine. Postage costs may be prohibative.
Good luck with the filmo! I just unpacked my filmo after x years and it's still a tank. The kids were impressed.
It's such a beautiful thing isn't it. The one I purchased of eBay was £80 with lenses. I started it up and it squealed and screeched! Put a bit of sewing oil in the oiling points and now it runs like a dream.
gaugefilm wrote:
I realize I could develop it myself in my lomo tank but I don't really want to split the film at 50ft. So I wondered what 16mm processing prices were like out there? If it's too pricy I'll split it and do it myself.
Any help on this would be brilliant
Kevin
You will only lose a few frames when you split it, and most likely won't notice it when projected. Sometimes when I buy 400ft of film and break it down, I make some 50ft rolls just for that purpose. I would think with your experience in processing, the last thing you would do would be to send out your film!
Hi Kevin,
Andec in Berlin is the lab to send it to if you don't want to do it yourself.
But I suggest you do it yourself.
To split it in half without losing any frames, first load the bottom half of the lomo spiral. When the spiral is full (ie has wound on about 50'), use a 16mm splicer to cut the film. Do this in pitch dark ofcourse. May need to practice how to do that. Its best for the lomo not to be 100 percent full. Rather, have slack between the spiral and the splicer, so you don't pull on the film and dislodge it from the tracks. Then, once cut, wind the slack film onto the lomo nicely.
Then, what you have to do is splice a little bit of film (anything like leader or junk film - whatever) onto the remaining 50' of film. Make sure you splice onto the base side, not the emulsion side, otherwise you will have one unprocessed frame where the splice was.
This piece of film is threaded into the the centre of the lomo spiral, thus avoiding losing or damaging any of your shot frames. Then load the remaining 50 feet. You may find that there is a few feet too many for the spiral. If its only about 5 feet, don't worry, this is the part of the film that was fogged when you threaded the camera in the light.
good luck with it,
richard
ps, if you don't have a 16mm splicer, feel for the sprocket hole as best you can in the dark and cut at that point as squarely as you can with scissors. Then, rewind the second half of the roll onto another spool, trim the end a few feet (cutting off some of the junk that was fogged when you loaded the camera) then load the top spiral of the lomo. Now it is the junk at the head that is goin in to the centre of the lomo, so you still aren't damaging any of your good frames.
When dry, you can re-join the film at the middle where you cut it with scissors using a kodak 16mm splicing tab. You don't need a splicer to do this.
I run Nano Lab - Australia's super8 ektachrome processing service
- visit nanolab.com.au
richard@nanolab.com.au
Amazing! This is what I will do, cannot wait to try it. All I need to do now is locate a 16mm splicer, any recommendations on this?
I also need to get my 16mm projector fixed. I purchased it years ago and I think there is a belt missing or something. When I get 5 minutes I'll upload a video of what's happening a hopefully someone can advise me on what's needed to fix it.
no.w.here lab will process black and white negative and transfer to Mini DV very cheaply. They also do prints, but annoyingly no black and white reversal.
Is Soho still processing 16mm? I heard they had stopped printing, but lately heard they may have stopped processing 16mm> Is that true or just hearsay?
