Regular 8mm Black & White Print

[studiocarter2]

https://youtu.be/FhRdyOWrcko

I finally did it. Broke the ice. Now to perfect it.

[Mmechanic]

Bravo!

Now to move from black and grey to black and white I’d suggest you print on positive stock.
It’s available in Double-8 at Kahl film, Germany in 400-ft. lengths. I am almost as far as you
with an 8mm project, still need some things around the camera.

[studiocarter2]

Did it. UN54 was printed with lower lamp settings onto DP3. I found the proper setting to be 3 on the needle dial. 2 made clear negative gray, not black, like 3 did. 5 had been used in the video. That made it so contrasty. 125 is the proper Asa in daylight and 3 is the lamp setting to print it with.

[Mmechanic]

I fear you haven’t followed me. It’s about printing on a stock that has a colourless base.

[studiocarter2]

Got it.
Kahl has a colorless base? Like Fomapan?
ORWO DP3 is less gray than the UN54.
Yea, I want to try that, too. Right now I have a pile of film to use up. And I'm still trying to learn how to use the printer. I will have to buy in bulk some day, soon if I work longer hours

[studiocarter2]

I'm going Loopy trying to make this thing work.

https://youtu.be/krqDM8Od1EQ

[mr8mm]

I have found KAHL difficult to work with. I ordered $2500 worth film three months ago and still don't have it. He is good at coming up with excuses why the film has not been shipped. He actually gave a phoney tracking number one time. Also you better know German. He does not like small orders and does not take paypal or credit cards. So, you have to wire transfer. No matter how good his film may be I recommend that you stick the gray ORWO.

[studiocarter2]

Thanks. I posted a different video showing the Cine Printer running 25feet without a hitch. studiocarter1 on YouTube

[Mmechanic]

I have a perforator. It needs an overhaul plus punches for Double 8. If I knew about footage demand, I should consider ordering a set of punches and prepare myself for making available various stocks in Double 8. It’s been a project since a while, I really only need to be able to reckon with some market space. Orwo stocks I can buy unperforated, so that would be an early offer.

[studiocarter2]

I use regular 8mm. Prints are made in regular 8mm. My goal is to print 100 feet at a time.

[Mmechanic]

I take it as Double Eight. Regular 8 applies to projection.
There was also Straight Eight, film 8 mm wide in camera.

[studiocarter2]

Film has been printed without slitting it first, so far. I use the 16mm gate. Both halfs of the Double 8 are printed at the same time. I may try slitting it first and printing it that way, too.

[Mmechanic]

I know. I have been in the film business since more than 40 years as cameraman, projectionist, laboratory technician, repairman.

[studiocarter2]

Your machine is not the only one that needs work. ORWO cutters are worn. My DP 3 film has rough edges running a couple inches alternating with smooth parts. UN 54 is all smooth. DP 3 is bumpy. It jams in the printer and cannot be pulled through. Sprocket holes get ripped.
I have different diamond sanding blocks that got it to run through the printer without stopping.
Nuts to that.
Sharpen the cutters!
I even have photographed the bumps.
The film does go through my H8 Rex, though. So, it is only a problem when I try to print.
Michael
[img]http://i822.photobucket.com/albums/zz14 ... ge.jpg/img]
[URL=http://s822.photobucket.com/user/studio ... 3.jpg.html]

[studiocarter2]

It is not just the bumps that prevent dp3 from traveling through the Uhler gate. The overall width is too great. I sanded both sides of a short strip made into a tight roll until they were light gray. After wiping it free of dust it became stuck in the gate when I tried to pull it through without sprockets engaged and without the pressure plate down. UN54 sailed easily and smoothly through under the same conditions without any sanding.
I'll try sanding the DP3 more later.