standard 8mm 100D in a quartz5 camera

[john59]

Its got me wondering now, As the title says, I have 4 rolls of std 8 100D and im using one roll in one quartz for animation under artificial lights., but I intend shooting the other 3 in daylight conditions on another quartz 5.

There are a set lenses that came with the camera, which one should I use with the 100D.




Regards.

John.

[Haydocklad]

Hi doesn't the quartz 5 have a fixed zoom lens?
Regards Mike

[cameratech]

By lenses do you you mean filters?

To correct daylight film for use under tungsten lighting you use a blue 80A filter, otherwise the pictures will come out a bit reddish. The filter eats up 2 stops of light so you need to expose the film as if it was 25 ISO instead of 100. Cool white fluorescent tubes need less correction, maybe a light blue 82C which only loses 1/3 stop (so rate the film at 80 ISO). See Kodak's spec sheet for 100D which has a few filter suggestions for different artificial light sources:
http://www.wittner-kinotechnik.de/neu/g ... cis287.pdf

Under daylight you don't need to use any colour correction filters (unless you want to play with the colours).

Here's a list of filters under the Wratten numbering system:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wratten_number

Different manufacturers sometimes used different numbering systems, no idea what the Russians used, maybe there's some info on the net. Otherwise you could just go off the colour of the filter and by placing it over your light meter you can measure the light loss.

[john59]

Ah, my mistake. Yes I did mean filters :oops:

So just to make sure, I load the film into the said camera, and shoot using the inbuilt light meter?

Back in the 70s when using K40 that's exactly what I did with great results, my concern was based on the fact that when using a super eight camera with 100D the sun symbol has to be switched to the bulb symbol but seeing that there is no built in filter in the quartz It kind of made me wonder.

Thanks cameratech for your reply

Mike.

Here is the camera.

http://www.collectorsweekly.com/stories ... dard-8-mad

[cameratech]

If you want to use the inbuilt meter it might be a good idea testing how accurate it is first, it would be a shame to waste that precious 100D. Why not shoot a spool of B&W reversal first and do some exposure bracket tests? Or you could compare the internal meter reading with an accurate external meter.

If you're happy that the inbuilt meter is working OK, you could rely on it for the daylight shots. But if you're using tungsten lighting for the animation stuff and you don't want it to have a reddish cast you'll need to use a blue filter. If you put a filter over the lens, the meter won't read correctly because it's not reading through the lens but below it, through a separate window. I imagine there was perhaps a smaller filter for the meter window to match the larger one for the lens in the original kit? At any rate, you could just cover the meter window with whatever filter you wanted to use, see how much light is lost, and then adjust the ASA dial to match that once the filter is removed and placed over the lens.

If you're having the film transferred to a digital file for editing I suppose you could always colour correct the red cast out in post, and not worry about filters at all. I think it's always better to get things right in-camera if you can though.

The built-in filter you find in Super 8 cams is an orange filter that corrects Tungten film for use in daylight. You certainly wouldn't want that in place when using Daylight film, so you switch the camera to 'bulb', meaning the filter is retracted.

[unsanity]

I recently tried some animation with my Zenit Quarz 1 x 8S-2 which is the super8 version and some Aviphot 200D.
Unfortunately, although I covered the eyepeice against backlight exposure, I did not cover the lens between exposures which was about one shot every minute or two, which resulted in a lot of light leakage, fogging and unusable footage. There was no problem with the rest of the film shot at 18 fps.

Julian

[DTNethery]

I recently tried some animation with my Zenit Quarz 1 x 8S-2 which is the super8 version and some Aviphot 200D.
Unfortunately, although I covered the eyepeice against backlight exposure, I did not cover the lens between exposures which was about one shot every minute or two, which resulted in a lot of light leakage, fogging and unusable footage. There was no problem with the rest of the film shot at 18 fps.

Julian

Since you refer to the exposures being "one shot every minute or two" it sounds like what you are trying to do is "time-lapse" , not animation.

If you are shooting stop-motion animation you should not be making long exposures (1 frame every minute) . Animation is shot 1 frame at a time and the frame should be captured instantly. (shutter speed of 1/20 sec for single frame on the Quarz 1 x 8S-2 ) For the Zenit Quarz 1 x 8S-2 you have to insert the cable release into the smaller of the two cable release sockets, the one in the lower right corner on the front plate of the camera. (not the middle cable release socket for normal speed shooting) http://www.super8data.com/database/came ... 1x8s-2.jpg Press down on the cable release and * Click * you will have captured 1 frame. Now make the next incremental change of position in the object or puppet you are shooting , then capture the next frame ... and repeat over and over until you have finished the animation. At 1/20th of a second exposure time you should not be getting any light leakage or fogging .


If you want to shoot flat artwork such as drawings on a registered peg bar or paper cut-out animation put the camera on a downshooter (copy stand) . But for the Quarz you would need to have a macro lens attachment (if there is such a thing?) because if I remember correctly the Quarz zoom lens only focuses from a minimum distance of 5 ft. Or else the copy stand column would have to be quite high , to keep the camera 5ft. above the shooting surface and then use the zoom to frame in close enough to capture just the artwork.




http://www.movingimageeducation.org/fil ... um-dca.jpg


Here are plans on how to make a simple animation stand:

http://sparetimelabs.com/animato/animat ... stand.html


Or you can just use a tripod that can be adjusted to 90 degree angle to shoot straight down at the flat artwork , like this:

[john59]

i have seen that web site before, very interesting indeed, I am in the process of building one my self based on the one I built many many years ago.

[unsanity]

DTNethery wrote:
<Since you refer to the exposures being "one shot every minute or two" it sounds like what you are trying to do is "time-lapse" not animation. >

Yes, I did mean stop-motion animation. Each frame was shot at 1/20 second every minute or two. I had to move the puppets each time.
With my 16mm Krasnogorsk it is recommended to cover the lens between each shot if it takes longer than 4 seconds or so. This is because of light leakage around the butterfly shutter. I assumed that my Zenit Quarz 1 x 8S-2 had a different sort of shutter that did not leak light between exposures but apparently that is not so.

Julian

[DTNethery]

DTNethery wrote:
<Since you refer to the exposures being "one shot every minute or two" it sounds like what you are trying to do is "time-lapse" not animation. >

Yes, I did mean stop-motion animation. Each frame was shot at 1/20 second every minute or two. I had to move the puppets each time.
With my 16mm Krasnogorsk it is recommended to cover the lens between each shot if it takes longer than 4 seconds or so. This is because of light leakage around the butterfly shutter. I assumed that my Zenit Quarz 1 x 8S-2 had a different sort of shutter that did not leak light between exposures but apparently that is not so.

Julian

Well , for shooting stop-motion animation with a puppet using the Quarz you should use a cable release screwed into the single-frame socket at the lower right-hand corner on the front of the camera.

Quarz_single-frame-socket.jpg

cable_release.jpg

Click the cable release one time and the camera will expose 1 frame . Now move the puppet again and click the cable release again -- click -- one more frame will be exposed , and repeat ... The f-stop should be set manually for single frame exposure (which is shutter speed of 1/20 ) .


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