hi
i have a few questions, baring in mind im still new-ish to using the format.
1.) recently shot 2 rolls of tri-x using a braun nizo 801, and am waiting for the results. i then read that it would be overexposed because the nizo can only go to 160 asa. so how will the film turn out? (i shot in overcast conditions outdoors, mainly architecture etc)
2.) if the nizo only reads to 160 ASA how does this affect the vision2 200t stock?
and even 500t?
3.) i have yet to be introduced to the world of cartridge notches, and basically know absolutely nothing about it, does anyone have a basic guide, photos etc of what its all about to get me started?
4.) are there actually any super8 cameras that can read any current kodak stock with an internal automatic exposure meter, without messing with notches on cartridges?
thanks for any help, much appreciated.
notches - many questions.....
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Re: notches - many questions.....
The advanced cameras can read all the notch sizes with no problem. Kodak sets up their notch protocols for these cameras, anyway.
The thing to look for are cameras that will read a full array of ASA speed-notches and also adhere to the SMPTE super 8 notch protocol. That means cameras like the sound Nizos, the big Canons, the manually set Beaulieus, the big Elmo silents, most of the big silents that were made before about 1972, etc.
The Nizo 801 will read Tri-X at ASA 100 at the daylight filter-switch setting. If you toggle the switch to bulb, it will read it at ASA 160. Either speed will work OK-- the ASA 100 reading will be one-stop overexposed, but in low-light conditions that doesn't matter, because there is not enough light to 'overexpose' anything.
It will read VISION 200T the same way. Kodak prefers 100 ASA, in fact for that film-- overexposed one-stop.
500T will be read at either ASA 100 or 160, depending upon the toggle. In my view that's a bit too much overexposure, so you can compensate manually by tweaking the aperture a little smaller for each reading.
In the 801, you can also cut a filter notch in these daylight cartridges. This way the meter will always be set at ASA 160, and you can use the internal 85 filter if you want to for daylight color correction.
As far as it goes regarding a basic guide to notch protocols, I haven't seen one, but there's not a whole lot to worry about. The problem really only involves more limited cameras that won't read many notch sizes, or don't recognize the 'notchless cartridge' super 8 protocol for 'daylight' films.
We should really get a list going as to which cameras those are....that would save a lot of thinking and worrying.
The thing to look for are cameras that will read a full array of ASA speed-notches and also adhere to the SMPTE super 8 notch protocol. That means cameras like the sound Nizos, the big Canons, the manually set Beaulieus, the big Elmo silents, most of the big silents that were made before about 1972, etc.
The Nizo 801 will read Tri-X at ASA 100 at the daylight filter-switch setting. If you toggle the switch to bulb, it will read it at ASA 160. Either speed will work OK-- the ASA 100 reading will be one-stop overexposed, but in low-light conditions that doesn't matter, because there is not enough light to 'overexpose' anything.
It will read VISION 200T the same way. Kodak prefers 100 ASA, in fact for that film-- overexposed one-stop.
500T will be read at either ASA 100 or 160, depending upon the toggle. In my view that's a bit too much overexposure, so you can compensate manually by tweaking the aperture a little smaller for each reading.
In the 801, you can also cut a filter notch in these daylight cartridges. This way the meter will always be set at ASA 160, and you can use the internal 85 filter if you want to for daylight color correction.
As far as it goes regarding a basic guide to notch protocols, I haven't seen one, but there's not a whole lot to worry about. The problem really only involves more limited cameras that won't read many notch sizes, or don't recognize the 'notchless cartridge' super 8 protocol for 'daylight' films.
We should really get a list going as to which cameras those are....that would save a lot of thinking and worrying.