Nizo Education

[etimh]

Okay, I decided I want to learn everything about the Nizo cameras. I'm getting the itch.

I did the responsible thing and started with a general search of the board--I got 1,743 returns. :roll:

Can anyone recommend a print or online source that does a good job giving a history and overview of the camera? Maybe a comparison and evaluation of the different models?

I already checked out the Super8List so I'm familiar with the basics. I'm looking for profiles, opinions, and recommendations.

Thanks.

Tim

[reflex]

Can anyone recommend a print or online source that does a good job giving a history and overview of the camera? Maybe a comparison and evaluation of the different models?

Here's an excellent specification chart:

http://www.merzbarn.com/Specification_c ... _chart.htm

Avoid the older models which require the evil little PX13 batteries for the light meter. You can only buy them from retired Latvian leprechauns on the third tuesday after a solar eclipse.

Actually, if you'd like a 148 Spezial or 156, I've got a couple of slightly ratty but operational ones. PM me if you're interested. (Right. I'm beginning to realize why I have no cupboard space -- damned cameras everywhere!)

Heck, I've got a beautiful S 800 up for grabs, too -- it works well in time lapse mode, but runs like a mad hound at 54fps when you select 18/24.

[etimh]

And there you go.

The house of merzbarn it is.

Thanks reflex.

Tim

[Steve P.]

http://www.merzbarn.com/Specification_c ... _chart.htm

You could also read a Nizo instruction manual (there used to be one or three available here).

Depending on your budget, if you’re not shooting dialogue, I’d recommend any of the 481/561/801 macro cameras or the Professional (get a macro). If you can afford the Professional, that’s a great camera.

Briefly, two things:

1. Be aware that many of the Nizo light meters run off separate PX625, 1.35V discontinued mercury button batteries. It’s an issue. You can’t get 1.35V button batteries. There are adapters available and some people report satisfactory results using 1.4V zinc-air substitutes, but that’s a much longer discussion.

2. My favorite Nizo function is the Auto.B, which works like an automatic “bulb” exposure on an SLR. It’s of no use if you’re shooting subjects in real time or for dialogue, but to shoot still/stationary subjects at night or in low light, or to fool around with an open shutter, it’s terrific. Really, my favorite feature.

Check the chart for which cameras have which features.

[Evan Kubota]

"1. Be aware that many of the Nizo light meters run off separate PX625, 1.35V discontinued mercury button batteries. It’s an issue. You can’t get 1.35V button batteries. There are adapters available and some people report satisfactory results using 1.4V zinc-air substitutes, but that’s a much longer discussion."

The mercury cells are PX13. PX625 is a similar-sized modern substitute that produces 1.5v. FWIW, using the 1.5v PX625s has given perfectly acceptable results in my cameras.

I have a Nizo S560... nice camera. The only other features I wish it had are the autoB mode and macro, both of which the 561 macro addresses. However, my Nikon R10 has a great macro mode.

The Nizos are nice in that they are very light and portable when compared to a tank like the R10. They're also not that loud and cut a low profile in public situations. I use mine primarily on a steadicam, since it's the lightest S8 camera I have by far.

[Steve P.]

The mercury cells are PX13. PX625 is a similar-sized modern substitute that produces 1.5v.

I have two Varta PX 625 1.35V mercury batteries in my 801, and the Nizo 481/561/801 manual calls for PX 625: “exposure control is powered by two 1.35 volt PX 625 cells”; Exposure Control, page 9.

I agree that currently, manufacturers are selling a PX625 1.5V. The 1.35V mercury PX625 has been discontinued.

[namke]

2. My favorite Nizo function is the Auto.B, which works like an automatic “bulb” exposure on an SLR. It’s of no use if you’re shooting subjects in real time or for dialogue, but to shoot still/stationary subjects at night or in low light, or to fool around with an open shutter, it’s terrific. Really, my favorite feature.

Hmmm, this sounds neat indeed... looking at the spec matrix though, it seems like all of the cameras with this feature require the 1.35v mercury batteries... Pity. Is there any other camera that has the 'B' feature?

john..

[mojohey]

The Nizo Pro has AutoB and runs with only AA... so NO 1.35v.
Also a few Bauers have it... A508; A512; Royal 10E/8E...i'm sure there are loads more.

[danpuddick]

I always use 1.4V hearing aid batteries on my Nizo 561 Macro and I tested them in comparison to the Zinc Air 1.35 replacement ones they sell at Jessops. They both give exactly the same reading. I have shot loads of rolls with the batteries and they work just fine.

I like my Nizo loads by the way. I use the time lapse/b setting/auto B all the time.

The only ways it could be improved in my opinion would be

:to have removable lenses

:only use AAs (does on Proffesional model)

:the buttons to be a bit sturdier - somtimes fear the plastic with break.

:the built in sync pulse generator to have a more standard socket (I've seen some adapted to have a phono socket there.

:Crystal sync (of course)

:Manual film speed settings.

But as super8 cameras go it's pretty damn good and seems to sell pretty cheap cmpared to Canons.

[xeno_basso]

The mercury cells are PX13. PX625 is a similar-sized modern substitute that produces 1.5v.

I have two Varta PX 625 1.35V mercury batteries in my 801, and the Nizo 481/561/801 manual calls for PX 625: “exposure control is powered by two 1.35 volt PX 625 cells”; Exposure Control, page 9.

I agree that currently, manufacturers are selling a PX625 1.5V. The 1.35V mercury PX625 has been discontinued.

Spot on Steve. I think people are confusing the PX625 with the PX625A...the A of course suggesting its Alkaline makeup. All "PX625's" today should have the "A" suffix...check it out.

By the way, in case anyone is wondering, the difference between Mercury based PX13 and PX625 cells was that one of them was rated for colder temperatures...I believe it was the 625.

Don't discount the humble PX625A's...if you shoot manual, these are fine as the meter needs current in order for it to be set manually.

Re AutoB, I agree, its the reason I got mine. Nothing like shooting K40 by moonlight!

xb

[onsuper8]

The MRB625 which is a direct replacement for the PX625 & PX13 is readily available as is a battery pod thingy into which readily available modern batteries can be inserted and stepped down to the correct voltage. Clearly to get any meter (and thus camera) to be acurate it's best to use the correct voltage batteries.

See http://www.smallbattery.company.org.uk for more details, they sell the MRB625 - other battery companies are available ya de ya...

[ccortez]

:the buttons to be a bit sturdier - somtimes fear the plastic with break.

sometimes they do! 8O

i have replaced (most of) the plastic ones on my 801 with the nice metal ones from a (broken) smaller model (can't remember, but it's apart on my workbench right now).

i like it much better now, more frankensteiny.

i also have an 801 macro. would love to have a pro. i also have the bauer 715xl, which is an amazing camera but i rarely use it b/c i'm so pro-nizo (how poetic).

besides, if i wanted pictures as pretty as those from the bauer i'd shoot 16mm! ;)

[Steve P.]

I always use 1.4V hearing aid batteries on my Nizo 561 Macro and I tested them in comparison to the Zinc Air 1.35 replacement ones they sell at Jessops. They both give exactly the same reading.

It’s possible they give the same reading because they’re the same battery. I believe they put the 1.4V cell in a different jacket and claim there is a different voltage, but what I’d seen said they’re still 1.4V (or within tolerance). I haven’t researched it extensively.

There is a fabulous article written by Frans de Gruijter about replacing the mercury PX625. The article has voltage-life output graphs, and even instructions to build your own 1.5V-1.35V adapter. I posted this last year, but the Rollei club which used to host it seems to have closed, and it’s now on this page:

http://www.stutterheim.nl/rollei/text_p ... wnload.htm

Look for “battery adapter”.

[danpuddick]

I had my suspisions too that they might be the same battery, they do look amazingly similar some even have the air holes in the same place.

I have read that article and it is interesting to see that apart from the initial voltage of the battery, the voltage under load and as the battery depletes.
The only ones steady enough for a camera seem to be zinc/air, mercury and silver oxide. So even you know the difference in reading from a 1.5V and could compensate an alkaline battery would not give a very consistent reading.

I am thinking now that the best thing to do would be to use the Schotky diode from the adaptor but place them inside the camera rather than in an adaptor. There is a little space in the nizo handle where you fit a tiny board.

[Steve P.]

My preference would be for the button-style diode adapter: 1. If you were ever to get another camera/tool that required the 1.35V source, you’re set -- you have this adapter. Build the device once and apply anywhere as needed. 2. If you should ever want to resell your camera, “unmodified” or “in original condition” is generally preferable. If you physically change the camera so it takes ONLY 1.6V silver batteries, that’s a limitation. On the other hand, if you build a button-adapter you can swap in and out at will, you have all the options open to you, and that’s versatility.