Does anyone have a manual instructions (in English or Italian is better) for Zeiss Ikon Movipress S8?
Thank you.
Zeiss splicer
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Re: Zeiss splicer
Interesting looking cement splicer.
Cement splices are the best and once one has some practice they're very quick to make. What is important is to get the type that grinds the base down thinner before the film is overlapped and glued. This will allow the film to go through the projector smoother. The simple splicers only scrape the emulsion off.
Just bear in mind you will always lose one or two frames if you redo the join. With tape splices one can change their cut point with no loss of frames.
Cement splices are the best and once one has some practice they're very quick to make. What is important is to get the type that grinds the base down thinner before the film is overlapped and glued. This will allow the film to go through the projector smoother. The simple splicers only scrape the emulsion off.
Just bear in mind you will always lose one or two frames if you redo the join. With tape splices one can change their cut point with no loss of frames.
Re: Zeiss splicer
I am used to the Bolex splicer (in addition to the various tape splicer that I use), I wanted to try this model with different cut, but unfortunately it's misaligned, it doesn't work.Silverdream wrote: ↑Thu May 24, 2018 7:30 pm Interesting looking cement splicer.
Cement splices are the best and once one has some practice they're very quick to make. What is important is to get the type that grinds the base down thinner before the film is overlapped and glued. This will allow the film to go through the projector smoother. The simple splicers only scrape the emulsion off.
Just bear in mind you will always lose one or two frames if you redo the join. With tape splices one can change their cut point with no loss of frames.
I should find someone to repair it, preferably in Europe.
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Re: Zeiss splicer
Luigi. The traditional overlap cement splicers are easier to work than the Bolex. They are great for attaching head and tail leaders (a must) to your films. I use a Maier Handcock (they bought the rights to the B+H splicer which is identical) most of the time. It is a professional unit and is a pleasure to use. They have become so cheap on ebay the last I looked, I would recommend looking to get one of them. The Stanco automatic electric powered splicer is so cool to use I will pull it out when I have lots of splices to make. Also a great unit. I love making cement splices and you can soak your films in Filmrenew and the splice will not separate, unlike any tape splices. Good luck.
Re: Zeiss splicer
Hello David, I have seen the Stanco and the Maier-Hancock, it's true, they are available at low cost.
In Stanco I can't see where is the tool for scratch, of Maier-Hancock I saw a video and I understood.
Maier seems to me to be mechanically better.
Do you think these electrical heating splicers can give a better result even than a Hammann and its particular type of cut? How do they behave with sound films?
In Stanco I can't see where is the tool for scratch, of Maier-Hancock I saw a video and I understood.
Maier seems to me to be mechanically better.
Do you think these electrical heating splicers can give a better result even than a Hammann and its particular type of cut? How do they behave with sound films?