Nizo Professional electronic fix?

[Film16]

Hi, I wonder if any filmshooter here (with a knowledge of electronics!) has come across this problem and might know a way of fixing it?

I recently won a Nizo Pro off ebay, very cheap as seller could not run it. Indeed the motor doesn't run (but everything else seems to works fine, e.g. light-meter, zoom). I tried many of the suggestions for dead Nizos on posts here: remote lead, external battery, single frame, but no luck. So I took the side cover off and had a peek, and found that by pressing a switch ('C' in the picture below) the camera runs fine at all speeds. I concluded that the problem lies with what I think is a solenoid ('S') which triggers the switch.

On closer inspection, I found two leads ('A' & 'B') connected to the solenoid which have (as shown) become detached from the circuit board. It appears the leads were originally attached either side of the orange component (a diode?) below the solenoid. Before attempting to solder them back on, I tried to simply hold them in place on the circuit board whilst holding down the trigger, but sadly nothing!

The camera is otherwise in very good condition so I really want to try and fix it and hopefully use it on my next film project! I have a multi-meter, does anyone know what I should be looking for? e.g. does a certain voltage need reach the solenoid?

I realise this fix might be a little ambitious for an electronics novice, but it is such a nice camera...! I will be grateful of any input.

Thanks in advance.
Tom.

[Taqi]

try sendean cameras?

[Film16]

Thanks. Might give it a go if I have no luck with the DIY method... I am sure it just needs a new component. Does anyone know if solenoids can just stop working?

[Mitch Perkins]

Thanks. Might give it a go if I have no luck with the DIY method... I am sure it just needs a new component. Does anyone know if solenoids can just stop working?

It's far more likely that you need to actually solder the connections: simply touching them to the contacts may not work due to decay of the solder still left behind, which we know decayed enough to let go the wires.

This [film transport] is the easiest part of these Nizos to fix. Keep at it and I can almost guarantee you success.

Mitch

[Film16]

Thanks Mitch (and thanks also to AJ for sending me some JPGs of his Nizo).

I cleaned up the area, stripped back the white wires, soldered them back where they were (either side of the diode), and... no luck. All I can think of is either a dead solenoid or worse, e.g. no current is getting to the solenoid. That said, as I wrote earlier manually activating the relay switch fires the motor, so there must be current.

If anyone has any further ideas, I would be very grateful. Otherwise, it will be a nice shelfpiece until I've saved up for the repair!

Cheers,
Tom

[Mitch Perkins]

Thanks Mitch (and thanks also to AJ for sending me some JPGs of his Nizo).

I cleaned up the area, stripped back the white wires, soldered them back where they were (either side of the diode), and... no luck. All I can think of is either a dead solenoid or worse, e.g. no current is getting to the solenoid. That said, as I wrote earlier manually activating the relay switch fires the motor, so there must be current.

If anyone has any further ideas, I would be very grateful. Otherwise, it will be a nice shelfpiece until I've saved up for the repair!

Cheers,
Tom

Try loosening, then tightening the silver screws that secure the circuit board. These screws are part of the grounding system, I believe. What I know is that the procedure has awakened more than one of these sleeping beauties. Loosening/tightening them removes patina buildup on the contact surfaces. Don't mess with the little black screws either side of the film speed pot.

Take a small piece of folded diamond grit sandpaper, [I'm using Norton Blue-Bak waterproof paper, T414, 600, 27C], and clean up the contact areas on both the solenoid and the lever it activates. Removing the lever should not be necessary.

Put the camera on runlock and simply poke lightly at the circuit board, all over. Specifically the small board top left which controls the "R" functions - push lightly on it. Also, right above your green line labeled "S" is a thick red wire - above that, on the "R" board are a couple of switches. Poke those switches!

I still think you can get this thing running - I have always managed to achieve film transport, and I don't know a damn thing about electronics. ~:?)

If I think of anything else I'll post.

Mitch

[Film16]

Thanks Mitch, that is very helpful. I gave all that a go and had some partial success. After poking those switches above the red wire you mention, the camera motor does indeed run, indicating that solenoid is working. This would leave, I guess, the trigger switch block. Unless you advise against it, I'll open that up and have a look to see if anything became loose in there as well. I remember reading these cameras are prone to problems in this area, although only in relation to the battery connection.

Thanks again and I will let you know.
Tom

[aj]

The Professional can have trouble with the wiring in the hinge. This is not likely in your case.

The trigger can have trouble too. This is mostly related with capacitor aging. I posted a description how the revive these a bit using the intervalometer.

Taking off the black base for inspection is not too difficult. Mind the wiring. Especially when putting it back.

Should there be trouble in the switch works in the trigger then the problem would not occur when using the remote switch...