K40 processing

Post by **studiocarter** » Sun Jan 19, 2003 12:38 am

My experiences with Kodak, I don't know... :? It makes you feel like the people who work at Kodak take delight in tormenting poor filmmakers who use Super 8mm. I was even told that Kodachrome was processed right there in NJ. "You can believe what you want to about S8 but it is processed right here" ; I just lumped that one in with try KMart for processing.
I don't like to call them

Post by **Sonic Truth** » Sun Jan 19, 2003 3:40 am

I heard you can pay more money for faster processing is this true?
who here has processed there own K40 sucessfully, of tri/plus X for that matter?

Post by **Actor** » Sun Jan 19, 2003 5:14 am

I don't think K40 can be processed at home. There is a reason that there are only two labs on the planet that do it.

Post by **mattias** » Sun Jan 19, 2003 10:36 am

kodachrome can be processed at home, but you only get a black and white image. as far as i understand it it's the adding of dyes that is hard (or almost impossible) since the emulsion is just three layers of black and white, sensitive to different colors.

/matt

Post by **mattias** » Sun Jan 19, 2003 10:38 am

...which all film is. most emulsions have the dyes "built in" though, so it's just a matter of adding a chemical to bring it out.

/matt

Post by **Sonic Truth** » Sun Jan 19, 2003 2:01 pm

The black and white stocks can be processed at home though cant they?
If it's possible i'd love to give it ago, not least because you have to buy the b/w stock and then pay extra for processing, whereas K40 process is included.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Sun Jan 19, 2003 4:14 pm

Sonic Truth wrote:The black and white stocks can be processed at home though cant they?

so can all stocks except kodachrome. even color negative if you feel adventurous. go ahead and try some b&w. the first time i tried it i just put a roll of tri-x in a can for stills and ran the regular d76 routine, which resulted in a very cool looking negative indeed. i've also tried the t-max positive kit, which works fine if you need a positive...

/matt

Post by **Sonic Truth** » Sun Jan 19, 2003 4:17 pm

well, i'll definately give it a go!

Post by **Actor** » Mon Jan 20, 2003 10:10 am

When K40 is processed as B&W it is no longer ASA 40. It's ASA 10.

That's really, really slow.

Post by **mattias** » Mon Jan 20, 2003 11:47 am

Actor wrote:When K40 is processed as B&W it is no longer ASA 40. It's ASA 10.

i thought it was closer to 20, but you're probably right. it's still fast enough for daylight exteriors in any case.

what about the rem-jet, or whatever the backing is? how do you remove it? i think i read a guide for the entire "kodachrome as b/w" thing a while ago, but i can't find it now...

/matt

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Jan 20, 2003 1:01 pm

Although not BW processing this might be of interest: (Process K-14)

http://www.kodak.com/country/US/en/moti ... 06-1.shtml

http://www.kodak.com/country/US/en/moti ... 7268.shtml

GENERAL:
http://www.kodak.com/country/US/en/moti ... rocessing/

K25: (K14)
http://www.kodak.com/country/US/en/moti ... 7267.shtml

R

Post by **S8 Booster** » Mon Jan 20, 2003 1:03 pm

It was me logged out for some reason

R

Post by **studiocarter** » Mon Jan 20, 2003 1:59 pm

The backing comes off with soap and water. Basicly it is a hand operation. If you have a film dryer and the film may be rolled up onto the large drum then you can wash it by hand rubbing after processing or after the critical stage is passed and it is still in some chemicals. Kodak uses high pressure water sprayers to get it off.

Post by **Sonic Truth** » Wed Jan 22, 2003 1:37 am

this is gettin' kinda complicated now...!

Post by **monobath** » Wed Jan 22, 2003 7:34 am

B&W reversal processing of Plus-X or Tri-X is not all that difficult to do, from a processing point of view. I've developed a few rolls now using Kodak D-94 for the first developer, and Dektol for the second developer. Image tone and grain looks good, but other physical characteristics are hard to control, meaning dust, scratches, undeveloped areas, etc. I built a plexiglass frame and processed more-or-less as described by Martin Baumgarten here:

http://lavender.fortunecity.com/lavende ... processing

It's difficult to wrap the film around the 11x14 plexiglas frame without overlapping a bit of film here and there. Development will be incomplete in such areas. If you wrap the film tight enough to avoid shifting and overlap, you run the risk of breaking the film. Yep, I did that. Another downside is that you need a lot of chemicals, like at least three litres of each solution in a 12x15 tray. And you have to process mostly in the dark. Drying the film is a problem too. You need a nice, dust free area where you can hang 50 feet of film in big loops so they don't stick to each other.

I think all these challenges can be overcome. I'm giving up on tray development, though. I've got a Jobo CPP-2, so I'm in the process of constructing a film holder from a PVC pipe to fit inside one of my drums. Hopefully I'll finish it up this weekend and take it for a spin!

Filmshooting

K40 processing

K40 as B&W

Re: K40 as B&W