New to film

[Gubble1234]

Well, I've made a bit of a rookie mistake... I've shot my first roll, but for about 44 feet of it, I got the lenses mixed up.

I stupidly thought that the big lense was the 13mm lens and the small lens was the 5.5mm lens, it's the exact opposite. So all of those lovely wide angle shots I took will actually be anything but wide. I'm hoping I managed to keep my subjects dead in the middle though so I can at least salvage something other than the last 6 feet of film.

Oh well, I have to learn somehow!

I'll send the film off to be processed when I get back at the beginning of next week and I'll hopefully have it back a week or two later.

It might be a good time to ask about editing film. What options have I got for editing it for projection?

[jpolzfuss]

What options have I got for editing it for projection?

Well... as an amateur in the year 2014 you can choose between "dry" and "wet" splicing. "Wet" means glueing the splices with "film cement" ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Film_cement ), while "dry" means using "tape" (either on a roll like https://sites.google.com/site/ewancolsell/super or already cut to shape to match a single splice like http://www.ffr-film.de/bild/3772.jpg ). That's it (for basically all amateur formats).

Main differences:
Wet:
Con:
* Film cement can only be used with Acetate, Triacetate and Nitrate films. Film cement cannot be used with polyester based film.
* Splices are larger and normally affects two frames (=two images). Hence editing mistakes are more difficult to "undo".
Pro:
* Cheap
* When done correctly, splices will last for decades or even centuries.
* Cement is the same for all formats from 8mm to 70mm.
* There are even several multi-format editing-devices.

Dry:
Con:
* More expensive
* Nearly every manufacturer had his own dimensions/shapes. And some types of tapes aren't produced any more.
* Most editing-devices are bound to a certain format.
Pro:
* Splices are larger and normally affects only the frame-separator (=the black bar between two images). Hence editing mistakes can be easily fixed.

[Will2]

Wet:
Con:
* Splices are larger and normally affects two frames (=two images). Hence editing mistakes are more difficult to "undo".

If you get a hot splicer the splice doesn't overlap a frame; just a tiny bit on the edges of each segment which is nearly invisible. They are strange to look at and not quite intuitive on their use, but once you do it a few times you'll love them. They warm up to help the cement dry faster. I have them for 16 and 35mm, I believe they made them for 8mm as well.

[jpolzfuss]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k66pLxyMQGI

[BAC]

Well, I've made a bit of a rookie mistake... I've shot my first roll, but for about 44 feet of it, I got the lenses mixed up.

I stupidly thought that the big lense was the 13mm lens and the small lens was the 5.5mm lens, it's the exact opposite. So all of those lovely wide angle shots I took will actually be anything but wide. I'm hoping I managed to keep my subjects dead in the middle though so I can at least salvage something other than the last 6 feet of film.

Oh well, I have to learn somehow!

I'll send the film off to be processed when I get back at the beginning of next week and I'll hopefully have it back a week or two later.

It might be a good time to ask about editing film. What options have I got for editing it for projection?

That's how we learn, I made a lot of mistakes my first few times. I still make mistakes every now and then.

I prefer cement splicing over tape. I don't know how many old tape splices I've had to fix because the glue on the tape dries out but I'm talking about some pretty old film. If you decide to go with cement I highly recommend the Bolex beveled splicer. It makes the best splices and it is easy to operate. You will hardly notice a splice going through the projector. I've never used the hot splicer but I understand it makes a good splice as well.

http://www.bolexcollector.com/accessories/edit60.html

[Gubble1234]

What options have I got for editing it for projection?

Well... as an amateur in the year 2014 you can choose between "dry" and "wet" splicing. "Wet" means glueing the splices with "film cement" ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Film_cement ), while "dry" means using "tape" (either on a roll like https://sites.google.com/site/ewancolsell/super or already cut to shape to match a single splice like http://www.ffr-film.de/bild/3772.jpg ). That's it (for basically all amateur formats).

Main differences:
Wet:
Con:
* Film cement can only be used with Acetate, Triacetate and Nitrate films. Film cement cannot be used with polyester based film.
* Splices are larger and normally affects two frames (=two images). Hence editing mistakes are more difficult to "undo".
Pro:
* Cheap
* When done correctly, splices will last for decades or even centuries.
* Cement is the same for all formats from 8mm to 70mm.
* There are even several multi-format editing-devices.

Dry:
Con:
* More expensive
* Nearly every manufacturer had his own dimensions/shapes. And some types of tapes aren't produced any more.
* Most editing-devices are bound to a certain format.
Pro:
* Splices are larger and normally affects only the frame-separator (=the black bar between two images). Hence editing mistakes can be easily fixed.

I think I will probably go for the film cement. I looked at the price of tape splices and they appear to be considerably more expensive than the cement!

Well, I've made a bit of a rookie mistake... I've shot my first roll, but for about 44 feet of it, I got the lenses mixed up.

I stupidly thought that the big lense was the 13mm lens and the small lens was the 5.5mm lens, it's the exact opposite. So all of those lovely wide angle shots I took will actually be anything but wide. I'm hoping I managed to keep my subjects dead in the middle though so I can at least salvage something other than the last 6 feet of film.

Oh well, I have to learn somehow!

I'll send the film off to be processed when I get back at the beginning of next week and I'll hopefully have it back a week or two later.

It might be a good time to ask about editing film. What options have I got for editing it for projection?

That's how we learn, I made a lot of mistakes my first few times. I still make mistakes every now and then.

I prefer cement splicing over tape. I don't know how many old tape splices I've had to fix because the glue on the tape dries out but I'm talking about some pretty old film. If you decide to go with cement I highly recommend the Bolex beveled splicer. It makes the best splices and it is easy to operate. You will hardly notice a splice going through the projector. I've never used the hot splicer but I understand it makes a good splice as well.

http://www.bolexcollector.com/accessories/edit60.html

Looks like a nice piece of equipment. I like the fact it creates a beveled edge on either piece of film before joining it, seems more precise! I'll keep an eye out on eBay for one, there are plenty of 16mm splicers on but no 8mm.

[Gubble1234]

I've got my film back! Wasn't quite as bad as I thought it would be. Some areas are a bit to close up because of the lens mix up, but some are fine. Towards the end there are a few bits where I didn't expose it quite enough, all you can see in the black fields are the white sheep.

It's all practice though!

[sciolist]

I'm reasonably certain the image of the Maier-Hancock hot splicer embedded in the post above is mine (see my original at https://www.flickr.com/search/?w=572477 ... er-Hancock), modified by someone (the power cord's been 'erased'). The Maier-Hancock model shown is an 816-S, capable of splicing 16mm, regular 8mm, and Super 8 (the Super 8 is accommodated with retractable pins controlled by levers not found on the model 816).

[Will2]

I'm reasonably certain the image of the Maier-Hancock hot splicer embedded in the post above is mine (see my original at https://www.flickr.com/search/?w=572477 ... er-Hancock), modified by someone (the power cord's been 'erased'). The Maier-Hancock model shown is an 816-S, capable of splicing 16mm, regular 8mm, and Super 8 (the Super 8 is accommodated with retractable pins controlled by levers not found on the model 816).

Interesting...I just did an internet image search and copied the image link...

http://louisa-tattersall.weebly.com/upl ... 1_orig.jpg

[Gubble1234]

Erm, why has my post above got a link in it where I have written "white sheep"? I don't recall putting that there?

EDIT: Oh, now it doesn't... How odd!