nd filter question

[ballynally]

hello.I'm looking to get a set of different ND filters for my Nizo 561macro S8 camera.I had in mind nd .3 .6 .9, but looking to buy most offered nd4, 8 etc.
Is that a different type of filter using different gauges? My Nizo has a 7-56 macro variogon lens, but it's a 49mm lens (according to the lenscap).

[CinemanUK]

Hi.

There are two ways in which you can specify an ND filter. The two are simply different ways of describing the same thing. An 0.3 ND filter is a filter which reduces the light reaching the film by 1 F.stop. This is the same as an ND2 filter. An 0.6 ND filter reduces the light reaching the film by 2 F.stops, and this is the same as an ND4 filter. An 0.9 ND filter is the same as an ND8 filter. You just need to be careful how you describe any particular filter you might wish to buy. I always describe any ND filter I buy by reference to the 0.* reference, but I think some manufacturers use the ND* reference in their descriptions. You just need to remember this and perhaps talk in terms of F.stop reductions. Then there is no doubt what it is you want.

I hope this is helpful.

[ballynally]

Hi.

There are two ways in which you can specify an ND filter. The two are simply different ways of describing the same thing. An 0.3 ND filter is a filter which reduces the light reaching the film by 1 F.stop. This is the same as an ND2 filter. An 0.6 ND filter reduces the light reaching the film by 2 F.stops, and this is the same as an ND4 filter. An 0.9 ND filter is the same as an ND8 filter. You just need to be careful how you describe any particular filter you might wish to buy. I always describe any ND filter I buy by reference to the 0.* reference, but I think some manufacturers use the ND* reference in their descriptions. You just need to remember this and perhaps talk in terms of F.stop reductions. Then there is no doubt what it is you want.

I hope this is helpful.

Yes, it is very helpful.thanks.when talking about the Nizo camera online i noticed people preferred to put either an nd3 or nd6 filter on the front, to reduce the automatic light reading of the camera concerning iso measuring. According to you that would be -1.5 f and -2.? am i correct?

[CinemanUK]

Yes, it is very helpful.thanks.when talking about the Nizo camera online i noticed people preferred to put either an nd3 or nd6 filter on the front, to reduce the automatic light reading of the camera concerning iso measuring. According to you that would be -1.5 f and -2.? am i correct?

Partly correct I think. The ND3 filter would reduce the light reaching the film by 1.5 Fstops. So on that one you are correct. However, an ND6 filter would result in a reduction of 2.5 Fstops.

I have a Nizo 561 Macro and I use an ND2 (0.3)(1 Fstop reduction). On other cameras, I also stay with whole Fstop values - 0.3 (ND2)(1 Fstop), 0.6 (ND4)(2 Fstops, 0.9 (ND8)(3 Fstops).

As I said earlier, some users quote the ND references and others quote the 0.* references. You just have to be sure that there is a clear understanding as to which referencing system is being used and understood.

[ballynally]

Yes, it is very helpful.thanks.when talking about the Nizo camera online i noticed people preferred to put either an nd3 or nd6 filter on the front, to reduce the automatic light reading of the camera concerning iso measuring. According to you that would be -1.5 f and -2.? am i correct?

Partly correct I think. The ND3 filter would reduce the light reaching the film by 1.5 Fstops. So on that one you are correct. However, an ND6 filter would result in a reduction of 2.5 Fstops.

I have a Nizo 561 Macro and I use an ND2 (0.3)(1 Fstop reduction). On other cameras, I also stay with whole Fstop values - 0.3 (ND2)(1 Fstop), 0.6 (ND4)(2 Fstops, 0.9 (ND8)(3 Fstops).

As I said earlier, some users quote the ND references and others quote the 0.* references. You just have to be sure that there is a clear understanding as to which referencing system is being used and understood.

great you have the same camera. any advice on the aperture setup required with ektachrome 100d? (auto-manual, daylight-tungsten ,general adjustments
etc.)

[CinemanUK]

great you have the same camera. any advice on the aperture setup required with ektachrome 100d? (auto-manual, daylight-tungsten ,general adjustments
etc.)

I spotted your other message, but I was reluctant to respond because I am presently awaiting the return of my first processed 100D film on the Nizo.

I did some research on the use of 100D in the camera. It seems to be the case that the camera will read the cartridge automatically and set the ASA automatically. It seems also that the camera will automatically remove the 85 filter. However, I came across suggestions that to be absolutely certain that the 85 filter was removed, I should set the filter switch to "Tungsten". I did that.

The Nizo 561 Macro is a super little camera and with Ektachrome 64T it produced excellent results, but I am still waiting for my first 100D film to be returned from processing, as I said earlier. I must say, though, that I am expecting similarly good results. I will let you know in due course whether the camera handled the stock well.

[ballynally]

great you have the same camera. any advice on the aperture setup required with ektachrome 100d? (auto-manual, daylight-tungsten ,general adjustments
etc.)

I spotted your other message, but I was reluctant to respond because I am presently awaiting the return of my first processed 100D film on the Nizo.

I did some research on the use of 100D in the camera. It seems to be the case that the camera will read the cartridge automatically and set the ASA automatically. It seems also that the camera will automatically remove the 85 filter. However, I came across suggestions that to be absolutely certain that the 85 filter was removed, I should set the filter switch to "Tungsten". I did that.

The Nizo 561 Macro is a super little camera and with Ektachrome 64T it produced excellent results, but I am still waiting for my first 100D film to be returned from processing, as I said earlier. I must say, though, that I am expecting similarly good results. I will let you know in due course whether the camera handled the stock well.

Thanks for that. looking forward to it.
Here's what i got on the Net so far:
I got my first 4 rolls back of the Kodak 100D carts. I used a Nizo 481 macro with the filter switch set for daylight (100ASA) and got great exposures. The colors were amazing and the grain was really tight... a real relief from 64T. Most of my shots were in overcast, so there wasn't a problem with high contrast. I used a ND .6 and cut out 2 stops for a timelapse over the Pacific Ocean. A .6 ND (effective 25ASA) is an easy solution for the higher speed in bright situations. The higher speed did produce very nice exposures for slow motion in overcast, where slower stocks tend to drop off. I'm real pleased with it, going to be shooting a lot more S8 now-
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With the Nizo 801, the filter is going to be disabled no matter what by the way the cartridge is set up. And you need to set your filter switch to the sun symbol to expose 100D at 100ASA. If you leave the filter switch on the bulb setting, the camera will read it as 160ASA and under expose the film. I've been using an ND .6 filter with the 100D. That cuts 2 stops and keeps me in the f5.6-f11 range. The internal meter will compensate for an external filter, so you won't need to make any adjustments.

nizo: manual, 1/2 stop underexpose
use +1 knob for more light exposure
or: turn knob to automatic, then watch through vf what happens. turn to manual and turn the knob to the right range.
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5.6/8 in overcast, 16/32 in bright sun, wide open in lowlight, with fine adjustments based on experience.
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Here's how to do manual exposures on the Nizo. Turn the little exposure knob on the top left hand side of the camera to manual. When you rotate it, it will bounce all the way to the other side of the scale in the viewfinder. Don't worry. Keep rotating it, and the needle will creep back much more slowly to the left. You can fine-tune it and leave it at whatever f/stop you desire.