how to splice, really, i'm at a loss

[dr3wrocks]

so far i'm completely unsuccessful in making a good splice. I've got a hahnel super 8 splicer. i'm trying to splice together some ektachrome from different rolls.

sometimes the grinder removes the emulsion cleanly enough although i can barely tell which side is the emulsion side or not.

it doesn't seem right that i have to flip the film over to rejoin it but i guess that makes sense

when i put on a little cement and apply pressure, it just never seems to work. the splice always pulls right apart. maybe i should leave it alone for like 20 minutes or something.

what am i not doing right?

[Andreas Wideroe]

Should be enough with only 20-30 seconds, but perhaps the new Ektachrome 64T is not suited for cement splicing? I don't know this since I haven't tried it. All I know is that it's hard to get a magnetic audio track to stick to it.

I suggest you get a tape splicer. Much faster and easier.

/Andreas

[dr3wrocks]

yeah. i've made nice tape splices. the one i have is broken though, and my presstapes all suck since the backing usually is still on the tape after peeling. they must be from the sixties.

That solves that then. As nice as it would be to have flawless professional awesome fantastic splices, I do think it's kind of neat to see the quarter second of wonkyness showing hey, i made that splice.

[Andreas Wideroe]

Get a Neumade or a CIR splicer. They are great and the splices are nearly invisible.

/Andreas

[studiocarter]

New film requires new glue, both were changed supposedly; and old glue won't work is what I was told. My stuff is all old and I've shot new film and everything works so go figure.

Lick your finger tips and hold the film. The side that sticks to your fingers has the emulsion.

Likewise, if you wet the area a little that you want to remove the emulsion from it comes off without any grinding. That keeps dust down.

Glue splices work great for me. Keep trying, you'll get it.

Try watching some of these movies about it all:

http://www.folkstreams.net/vafp/

Michael Carter

[David M. Leugers]

Unless the base material of film has been changed, any fresh film cement should work on any acetate base film. I.E. everything in S-8mm except for the Fuji polyester base film. Good fresh cement is key to making good cement splices. To get the most out of a bottle of cement, keep the amount of time the lid is off to an absolute minimum - no more than a few seconds for each splice made.


David M. Leugers

[dr3wrocks]

maybe my cement is old, too. do camera stores stock this kind of thing?

[Taqi]

Make sure you remove the emulsion downt to the base - ie so the film is clear. The base side (the shiny one) needs scraping as well, especially if the film has any kind of lubricant on it. Also, remove any dust from the scraped edges - when I first used cement splices I had difficulty getting them to hold, because I was leaving emulsion dust on the base..

Fresh cement is probably a good idea - not that difficult to get hold of - don't know where you are but B&H sell it in the States, and no doubt the widescreen centre in the UK.

[dr3wrocks]

i guess my cement is okay. although i spilled half the bottle so i may as well plan on ordering some more.

i just left the pressure thing on for a few minutes and it bonded just fine. i solved the issue with poor scraping by using 2 frames worth of leader to bond the two lengths and just scraping best i could.

While I understand I can get a new grinding wheel for my hahnel (which i might) i've placed bids on some more splicers. One's a guillotine splicer, and i think it uses tape.

I like the idea of using cement, and I do have a pretty nice (i think?!) regular 8mm splicer that i'm going to practice on with some sound regular 8mm film that i've got. which reminds me, i really, really, really want to find a projector that'll do super or regular 8, sound film.


And i do appreciate everyone's help. I thank you all for welcoming me and helping me as a new filmmaker. I hope to eventually shoot something worth watching !