Filmshooting

those dvd's will probably last a hundred years too, the previously considered short life expectancy of optical media has since long been proven wrong. i have commercial cd's that are over 20 years and 15 year-old burnt ones that work just fine. finding a machine to play them might become a problem t...

if you're projecting/transferring at 9fps yes, if you project/transfer at 18 or 24 for a fast motion effect no. the "relative smear" is the same and determined by the shutter angle.

i've used the litepanel camera light and it gives you quite a bit of punch. they're not as soft as you'd think, the beam is narrow enough that you get vignetting with a wide angle. as fill it works well even with slow stocks but if you want to use it as key and not have to shoot eyes and noses only ...

i haven't done that much with s8 but i love it for stills and shoot at least a couple of crossed ekta every year. the reason i love it though is because the colors are completely fucked up (is this the last forum on the net that lets me say fuck?) so i doubt it would be a good idea for general purpo...

yeah don't filter the camera, filter the lights or use daylight balanced lights (replacing tubes with daylight ones can work extremely well in places like gyms and offices for example). this means you can take advantage of stray daylight, plus you don't always have to correct tungsten sources all th...

thanks, i've used the modern arri glass too, and on wider gauges i tend to use diffusion to take the edge off. i wasn't referring to arri glass per se, many of the arri mount lenses i've used have been cookes, angenieuexs and so on. there are plenty of lousy c-mount lenses, i guess my question is wh...

i actually own an arri to c-mount adapter that i've never used, it's just a great dumpster find, am i more likely to find sharp lenses in arri mount? there's an arri kit i often rent for almost nothing for 16mm use that i could try. nothing shorter than a 10 mm there though irrc.

yeah the heat is not a problem, neither is air humidity, but the sun can kill both your film and your camera, so keep them out of it.

reproduction is not a purpose, it's the result the old nihilist in and out, go figure. :-) anyway, i knew jamie would come to my rescue. just make sure you don't even out the balance this time bro. (do you already know?)

yeah i have a son. there, i said it, feel free to kick me out until i can produce a real filmshooting baby. it's actually funny, because he was born a year and half ago, while i was away from this forum researching and using dslr cameras.

congrats. first i thought it had something to do with processing chemicals, but i've done a fair share of that myself, and we're ahead 2:1 in our family. never owned a workprinter though, could that be the connection? what glue do you use roger?

a good lesson to have learned for sure, but if you think you got the eye for it don't let technology stop you. a calibrated monitor and practice is all you need.

if you get vignetting it usually goes away if you zoom in just a little bit. i've used 16mm lenses on s16 this way and i think that's a bigger difference in size. it only takes very little, but you have to shoot some tests and remember where the limit is.

the "clipping range" of a scanner is limited by saturation in the sensor though, no number of bits can bring back information that has been electronically clipped. more bits means less quantization noise so there's more info within the range. i know you know this, i just wanted to clarify ...

again it's only an issue if the lens is for 3-ccd cameras. do you have the full specs for your lens?